Batteries and Cameras!

I thought it might be useful to publish a post with useful information about film cameras and batteries.  After handling many hundreds of cameras over the course of years of  selling estates and getting cameras ready for the FPP School Donation Program, as well as doing my own thing with my own photography, I find that it's been an overlooked topic, so I hope that you find this a helpful resource.

A typical manual SLR needs just  1.5 - 3V to run the exposure system

One of the things about using film vs digital cameras, is that in general, film cameras need far less power than their digital counterparts. Don't forget that that digital wonder is basically a small computer with a viewing screen, operating an auto-focus system.  All that takes a considerable amount of stored energy in a battery such that digital cameras usually operate with rechargeable Lithium-ion (Li-on) or Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries.  Since film cameras usually need far less power, they typically use small button or penlight cells. In fact, film cameras that lack meters or any electrical operation do not need any battery power at all. A Nikon F only needs a couple of button cells to operate the Photomic head with a meter.  It can easily be used without any battery power whatsoever. An Argus C3 doesn't need a battery, nor does a Leica M3.  Most SLR cameras that were sold before the late 1970s only need a battery to power the light meter, and lacking that, work just fine without power, although you may need an external light meter or maybe you just want to use Sunny-16 or the Black Cat Exposure Chart.  Once the 1980s kicked in, cameras became more sophisticated, and required more power, especially if the camera is an auto-focus model.  All those little motors in the lenses, film winding/rewinding, exposure systems, and flashes require more power, which led to larger batteries or battery packs in the camera bodies.  In many SLR systems, an external winder may use 4-8 AA cells, which of course adds significant weight.  As manufacturers refined the winding systems, by the time auto-focus SLRs became available, the power to run them was contained in a 6V battery, or 2 3V batteries that fit easily into the grip.

Adding automation requires more computing/battery power.

Light meters have typically required one or two button cells in a camera. Before the 1980s, cameras that required power for the light meter almost always used Mercury cells.  The reason is that Mercury cells gave out a continuous 1.35 V and lasted a long time, and when they went dead, that was it. There was no slow decline in voltage that would give bad meter readings. Then, Mercury compounds were found to leach into the waste systems in landfills, etc., and the Mercury cells were banned.  Probably far more cells were used in those light-up sneakers that kids wore than all the cameras ever made. Anyhow, that was the end of them, and older cameras that used those cells were often replaced with newer models by the owners, or the owners scoured the stores for old stock Mercury cells. Old stock cells were still available online until at least 2002.

Cell versus Battery
People often call 1.5 v cells batteries, but technically, they are not. A battery is a group of cells producing a larger output of power than a single cell.  Button cells, AA, AAA, C, D cells are not batteries.  A 9V transistor battery IS a battery, as are any of the batteries that are more than 1.35 or 1.5V. Your 12 volt car battery contains a bunch of lead-acid powered cells that when joined together, provides 12 volts. Generally, we just lump these power sources under the term battery in common usage, but it's good to know the difference.

Button Cells
Button cells are extremely common in film cameras, especially SLRs, where they typically power the meter and some electronics.  They are ubiquitous, and their compact size and 1.5V output usually has them installed in cameras in pairs, so that they provide a 3V output.  The most common size is the Alkaline LR-44 cell, followed by the 76S - which is identical in size to the LR-44, but is a Silver-Oxide cell that provides 1.55V with a longer life than the LR-44. A less common button cell in later cameras is the PX-625A. It's now mostly used to replace the PX-625 Mercury cells, but it has a higher voltage than the cell it replaces which may cause meters to be a stop or so off in the readout.

AAA and AA cells
Yes, these are what us old-timers call penlight batteries.  They are most typically used to power flashes, and in many older point-and shoots, they provide all the power for the camera functions.  Some auto-focus SLRs used them too. The Nikon F100, N90, N8008, and the N2000 all use AA cells as they provide enough power for many rolls of film before they poop out.  In addition, the AA and AAA cells are easy to find, unlike some of the esoteric batteries that I will now discuss.

Lithium batteries.
These batteries use more modern technology to deliver lots of power yet, remain compact enough to use in a camera. The late 1980s saw these start to be used in a variety of caameras, but most notably in consumer-level auto-focus SLR cameras. There are a bewildering number of battery types out there, and sometimes you'll find an oddball battery that may cost as much as your $15 Nikon that you found at the thrift shop.

Nickel Metal Hydride - NiMH Batteries
Typically, these are rechargeable cells, such as AA and AAA.  They can be used in place of the Alkaline cells of the same size, and the prices are very low.  They make a lot of sense for power-hungry flash units, and can usually be recharged a at least a hundred times before they need to be replaced.

Oddball Alkaline batteries 
The first one that comes to mind is the 6V 4LR44 battery which is used in the Canon AE-1 and AE-1 Program, as well as the Pentax 6x7.  Another is the 6V PX27G.  In some cases you can take 4 LR-44 cells and tape them together to replace a 4LR44 battery (which seems to be the reason for that designation).  If you have a Yashica rangefinder camera, you'll also be looking for oddball cells, so look at http://yashica-guy.com/document/chrono2.html for more information on your Yashica rangefinder camera.

Nickel-Cadmium cells
NiCds were popular in the 1970-80s for rechargeable battery packs, especially in professional cameras such as the Hasselblad EL, the Rolleiflex SLX, and in various flash units.  They fell out of favor when Lithium-ion and Ni-MH cells became more common and cheaper in the 1990s.  NiCds also have fewer recharge cycles than the newer technologies.  However, in some of the cameras that required them, you can still source re-built NiCd packs.  Cadmium is a toxic metal, and the old cells need to be disposed of safely.  Some cameras that took AA alkaline cells warn against using NiCd cells because they typically only provide 1.2V each.

What about those cameras (and light meters) that used Mercury Cells?
There are a few solutions:
1. Replace the cell(s) with an Alkaline equivalent.  The PX-625A is going to be the most common replacement.  Of course, it will provide 1.5, not 1.3 volts, and may affect your meter reading.  Some cameras use a circuit that the higher voltage still gives an accurate reading. You can compensate with the cameras that are affected by setting your ISO dial to a one stop lower setting.  That is, if you are using ISO 400 film, set the dial to ISO 200.  To be honest, with C-41 films and most black and white films, there is enough latitude that it won't make a huge difference.  You can check it against sunny-16 using a gray card and see what your meter reads. If it's off, you'll know what direction to change it.
2. Replace with a Wein cell - these are basically a modified Zinc-air hearing aid cell with an adaptor to fit the PX-625 chamber.
3. Replace with an appropriate-sized Zinc-air hearing aid cell, and use a spacer to keep the cell in place in the battery chamber. The Duracell 675 hearing aid battery will work in many of the cameras and light meters that require a mercury cell. You may have to shim it in place to not move around.
4. Purchase an MR-9 adapter (http://www.criscam.com/) and use a 76S or LR-44 cell.  The MR-9 adapter contains a diode that drops the voltage to 1.3V, and while it may seem a bit pricey, it can be moved from camera to camera as needed.  It's the best solution if you want to use a Luna Pro light meter.
5. You can use the camera without powering the light meter, and use an external meter instead.  However, some cameras, such as the Nikon FE, require power to fire the shutter at any speed because the aperture-priority mode requires power, whereas the Nikon FM is fully manual, and the shutter can work without power. The Pentax K1000 and the Pentax Spotmatics are also fine without using a battery for the meter, as are most M42-mount SLRs.  Many of the older Canon  SLRs such as the FTb work fine battery-less.  You just have to use an external meter.

NOT ALL CAMERAS NEEDED BATTERIES FOR METER POWER
There are numerous cameras that used solar cells to power the exposure system.  The Olympus Trip 35, Konica EYE, and the Canon DEMI are good examples.  Most of the examples date from the 1960s and 70s.  A ring of cells around the front of the lens is a sure bet that the camera is powered by a Selenium meter.

STORAGE
It makes good sense to store your camera without the cells or battery in it if you are not going to use it for awhile.  This holds especially true for cameras that use AA aand AAA cells - which will leak over time and ruin the camera.  I can't stress this enough. I have seen far too many contacts ruined to the point of no-return by leaking AA cells.  Whether it's a camera or a flash unit, remove the cells before you put it away for any length of time.  Button cells seem much less likely to cause problems in storage, nor do Lithium batteries.  The real culprits are the AA and AAA cells which can do the damage when they leak over time.

You can store fresh batteries in in the fridge if you wish to prolong their storage life, but I have never tried it to see if it makes a difference.  Certainly high-heat will degrade them, since chemical reactions are accelerated by higher temperatures.


BUYING BATTERIES
With the advent of digital photography, the market for camera batteries shifted to rechargeables, and the prices for non-rechargeable camera batteries have gone up.  If you look for a CR123A battery at your local store, be prepared for sticker shock.  I buy most of my button cells and Lithium batteries online, either via Amazon or eBay.  A pack of 100 LR-44 cells can be had for less than $15 online.  There are plenty of online sources for batteries, but I still buy my AA and AAA cells  locally.

BATTERY CROSS-REFERENCE CHART - Not all manufacturers use the same numeric designation for a particular size, but this chart will be helpful.

CAMERAS AND POWER SOURCES (obviously NOT a complete list, but it's a starting point)

PX-625 Mercury cells:
NIKON - F Photomic prism, Nikkormat FT, FTN;
CANON- QL-17, EXEE, F-1, FT QL, FTb, FX, Canonet 28, TL, TLb, TX
OLYMPUS - OM-1
LEICA - CL
MINOLTA - SR-T series, Hi-Matic 7, 7S, 7SII, 9;
PETRI - Color 35,
KONICA - Auto S, Auto S2, Auto S3, Autoreflex T, Autoreflex TC, C35, FP,
KOWA SE, SET; ROLLEI 35,  YASHICA TL-Electro-X,

PX-400 Mercury cells 
A great number of Pentax Spotmatics used this size Mercury cell.  However, you can use a silver-oxide cell without fear of affecting the exposure accuracy.  The Spotmatics use a bridge circuit so that whether the source is 1.35V or 1.5V, you'll get the same result.  I recommend using a 392 (LR-41) silver-oxide cell for the Spotmatic SP series, and a PX625A for the Spotmatic F.

PX-27 Mercury batteries (5.6V)
MINOX LX, Minox 35 series;
ROLLEI 35 TE, ROLLEI 35 SE, ROLLEI 35 LED

LR-44 or S-76 cells (1.5V) 
(Typically there are 2 in series, for 3V total. You can often use a 1/3N battery, which replaces 2 LR-44 cells. They tend to be more expensive than the 2 LR-44s , though.)

NIKON - Nikkormat FT2, FT3; Nikon FM, FE, F2, F3, FM2, FM2N, FE2, FA, EM, FG, FG-20, FM3A, FM-10
CANON - T60
OLYMPUS - XA series, OM-2, OM-10, OM-4, OM-PC
PENTAX - K1000, ME, MG, LX, Super Program, P30T,
MINOLTA - X370, X570, X700; CLE, XD series, XG series,
LEICA- R4
YASHICA - CONTAX - Contax 139, Yashica FX D, FX-3, FX-7,
KONICA - FP-1

AA
CANON- AF35ML, Sure Shot AF10, T-50, T-70, T-90
NIKON - N4004, N8008, N90, F100, F4, F5, L135AF,
KONICA- FS-1, MG, TC-X
MINOLTA 9000

AAA 
CANON AL-1,
KONICA FT-1
MINOLTA MAXXUM 5000, 7000
NIKON N2020

4LR44 (6V)(= PX28, A544, 476A)
CANON AE-1, AE-1P, A-1, New F-1, AT-1, AV-1
NIKON Nikkormat EL, EL2
YASHICA Electro 35CC, Yashica FR, Yashica FX-1,

CR-2 Batteries (3V) (Most SLRs use 2)
NIKON- APS Pronea 6i, N55, N65, N75
PENTAX - MZ-S, Z-5, MZ-10, ZX-10,
CANON-  Rebel 2000,  Rebel K2, EOS IX, Sure Shot 130u, Sure Shot Classic 120
MINOLTA - QTSi, XTSi, Maxxum 5, HTSi 
CONTAX G1, G2, T3,


CR-123A (3V) (Most SLRs use 2)
NIKON - N60, N80, N70, One-Touch 90 Zoom,
CANON - EOS Rebel G, ELAN 7, EOS 30v, Sure-Shot 105 zoom, Sure Shot 60 zoom, Sure Shot 70 zoom, Sure Shot 80 zoom, Sure Shot A-1, WP-1, Sure Shot M, Sure Shot Max
MINOLTA - Maxxum 7, Maxxum 9
YASHICA T4
CONTAX T2,


CR-223 or DL223A (6V)
may replace 2 CR-123 in some cameras

2CR-5 (6V)
CANON- EOS 650, EOS 620, 750, 850, 100, EOS 3, A2E, Sure Shot Zoom XL, EOS-1V
NIKON - N50, N6006
MINOLTA - 7000i, 9xi
PENTAX- SFX, SF-1; SF-7, SF-10;
KONICA Hexar, Yashica T2


Okay, you have read this far!  If you have a fully manual, non-meter camera such as this one, no battery needed!   You are ready for that desert island trip.

Konica Auto S2 - A Handful of Fun

The Konica Auto S2 is a Japanese 35mm fixed-lens rangefinder camera that was produced in 1965 and differs from the earlier Konica Auto S by having a Hexanon 45mm f/1.8 lens and with its CdS meter cell re-located to the ring in the front of the lens. This relocation of the sensor has a couple advantages. One is that the lens cap now covers the sensor as well,  turning off the metering system and preserving battery power. Another is that metering will be correct when a filter is fitted, since the sensor is now located behind the filter. The pull-out hood reduces glare.






Basic Features -
Lens: Hexanon f/1.8, f=45mm 6 elements in 4 groups, 55mm filter
Shutter: Copal SVA (B, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500)
Meter: Cds, powered by 1.3v mercury, with battery test  (using a 1.5v cell is fine)
Dimensions: 138mm (width) x 82.2mm (height) x 73.5mm (thickness)
Flash - PC sync socket, coldshoe on top.
Meter scale visible on top deck
True rangefinder focusing
Weight: 750 grams

I owned one of these about a decade ago, and sold it, which I later regretted.  My current camera came from Becky Ramatowski in NM, aka Astrobeck on Flickr and Facebook.  I have a standard 1.5v cell in it, and so far, my shots from it have been perfect.   It’s a shutter-priority camera when in auto mode, but you can also shoot it manually and without a battery.  It takes 55mm filters, and of course, the meter works great with filters.  The slip-out lens hood is a nice touch.  The camera’s ISO settings range from 12-400, and with the fast lens, is great for most photography.   The rangefinder patch is easy to see.

It certainly isn't a tiny rangefinder camera, and in size and appearance, looks much like a Minolta Hi-matic 7.    I have had it on several trips now, and found it to be a pleasure to shoot with, and switching from Shutter-Priority Auto to full manual is not a problem.  Overall, it's a keeper, and that wide aperture makes it great for shooting indoors and people close-up. 

You can find these on ebay from 25-60 bucks. One in good working order is a wonderful camera to have, and you'll be happy with the results!

Here are some examples from the camera. All were taken on the same roll of Ultrafine Xtreme 400 film.

As you can see, these represent a wide range of lighting situations, and the camera worked as I had hoped.  

Konica Autoreflex TC...again.

You would think that by now I would be able to see a lonely orphaned camera in a thrift shop without bringing it home.  I guess I am not there yet, if the price is right.  Yesterday I was at the Ann Arbor Recycle/Reuse Center (where I also purchased a like-new pair of Realistic Solo-1 speakers), and saw this dirty, yet working Konica Autoreflex TC for $10.  It had the wonderful 40mm 1.8 Hexanon AR lens.  I opened it up, and the inside was clean, the shutter speeds worked, so I figured I would buy it. Over the years, I have acquired a few of these cameras, and have donated them to the Film Photography Project. A few years ago, I had a bag full of Konica SLRs, and have since divested myself of all of them.  Yet, once again, a lonely, unloved Konica TC turns up.

before cleaning

Today, I cleaned the camera up.  It was filthy on the outside, but the glass on the lens is excellent, and the insides are clean.  My cleanup kit consists of a used soft toothbrush, industrial cotton swabs (the ones on a stick), an old t-shirt, lens tissue, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.  That usually handles just about everything, but sometimes a bit of Windex or Naptha is needed for stubborn dirt or sticky residue.  I removed the old camera strap, which was a custom one with the name of the former owner embroidered on it.  Although the Autoreflex TC originally required 2 PX-13 1.35V mercury cells, two 625A 1.5 cells will work fine, and you may not need to compensate via the ISO wheel.   I put in the 625As, and checked the metering against my Nikon N6006, and the reading in the TC was the same at ISO 400. Note -- you do not need batteries for the TC to function, except for the auto-exposure and metering.  If the batteries fail, you can use an external meter or sunny-16, and you adjust aperture and shutter speed manually. Otherwise, just set the lens to AE and set the shutter speed, and the camera will choose the aperture.  In other words, it is a Shutter-Priority and Manual camera.

One of the things I find when rehabilitating old cameras is that the light seals and mirror-bumper  usually need replacing. In the Autoreflex TC, I cannot see the mirror bumper, as there is a thin plastic or metal shield at the top behind the lens.  The light seals on the back seemed to be good enough to at least shoot a test roll.

after cleanup!

Using the Autoreflex TC
I look at the TC as being a compact Autoreflex T, hence the TC.  It's definitely lighter than a Autoreflex T, T2, etc., and is smaller than a Pentax K1000.  Plastic components obviously keep the weight down.  While the TC has a limited range of shutter speeds from B, 1/8- 1/1000 sec., it's a good street camera.    The camera has a standard hot shoe and PC socket for flashes, with a 1/125 sec sync speed.  In other words, while it's not everything you might need in a small SLR, it has what you will need in most situations.  In fact, it's a pretty decent "student camera."  One other tip on using the camera -- do not try to pull up on the film rewind to insert a new roll of film. The bottom is cut out a bit so a roll just fits right in. The rewind knob only rotates to rewind the film, and there is no vertical movement. The meter turns on when you move the wind lever away from the body. A button below it sets the lever back against the body, locks the shutter release, and turns off the meter.  Of course, if you need a manual, our friend Butkus has one. Be sure to donate some $ to his site to keep those manuals available.

A Look at the Konica TC-X

Sometime last fall, I found a nice example of the  Konica TC-X SLR, which appeared in 1983.  It has been termed the first "all plastic-bodied SLR" and was manufactured by Cosina for Konica.  The one I purchased came with a gaudy Konica strap, which certainly is attention-getting!  The TC-X is typical of Konica's autoreflex line of cameras in that it features shutter priority operation, and much like the Autorflex TC it replaced, the shutter speeds range from 1/8 to 1/1000 sec., + B.  While the camera does offer DX-code reading to set the ISO, it can also be manually set for a range of 50 to 1600.  The on-off switch on the top deck next to the film winding lever is easy to use, and the shutter button has a threaded recess for a cable release.  There is a self-timer switch on the front of the camera.   That's pretty much it for features.  Oh, and it has a very plastic body.  I suspect it has a pentamirror rather than a pentaprism, as the image through the viewfinder is nowhere near as nice as that found on an Autoreflex T.   However, it does have a split image circle at the center microprism, which does aid in focus.

So far, I have only shot a roll of expired Tmax-100 which I recently developed.  The exposures look good, and with the 40mm 1.8 lens as pictured, the combo makes for a very light, fairly compact SLR.  The body uses 1 AAA battery for the metering and auto-exposure.  If power fails, you can still use the camera manually by setting the aperture and shutter speeds independently.

Like all the Konicas that I have used, the shutter-priority operation is an acquired taste.  I prefer aperture-priority, but it's not a big deal making the adjustment.  The Konica glass is very good, and the body very cheap.  I see no reason why this would not make a pretty good camera for street photography.  It takes up little space, and ought to give good results.

All of the images that follow were taken during the A3C3 photo meetup in Clinton, MI last November.

It's All About The Lens.

While I have long been a mostly Nikon shooter, I realize that there are other lenses out there that are really amazing, and that they don't mount on a Nikon.  Since I am shooting film here, I am not going out to buy a Sony Alpha or some other mirrorless digital camera to mount different lenses on.  No way.  This boy is shooting film as much as possible (and yes, I do own two Nikon DSLRs).  For instance, Konica has always had a reputation for manufacturing some excellent glass.  I was given a Konica Autoreflex TC by my mother-in-law last year.  The camera body wasn't working, but the 40mm 1.8 lens was perfect, so I bought a Konica Autoreflex T body on ebay for about $15.  Then, I saw the 57mm f/1.4 at Huron Camera -- an amazing lens I have read about elsewhere. I bought it, and it is one of those lenses that quickly becomes a favorite.  Wide-open it has a bokeh that will make some of those bokeholics pee their pants.   My Autoreflex T's meter is a bit off, so I usually use sunny-16 or a hand-held meter for my exposures.  What I have REALLY come to love is shooting the expired Panatomic-X (that I bought back in March at the estate sale) with this lens.  I am getting some images that I have really been liking.  Shooting late in the day with soft light at wide-open aperture or close to it is giving me some results that I am quite pleased with.

There are many other lenses out there that justify owning a body that they fit just to shoot with them.  It's all in the glass... the body is just there to keep the film in.    What's your favorite lens?

Results from the Autoreflex T

I cheated here -- this is not a flipped mirror shot, it was taken with my Nikon 1J1.

In the previous post I explained my recent acquisition of a Konica Autoreflex T SLR.  I finally finished off the roll of Arista Premiun 400 and developed it in TMax RS developer.  Just looking at the negatives as they dried, told me that the metering was good - at least good enough.

One of the problem with many of these older cameras is that they required 1.35V  Mercury cells for the meters.  Fortunately, I can use Zinc-Air cells in this model without any adapter, and their voltage is plenty close enough. On top of that, some meters lose sensitivity at low EV levels, so while they may function well in daylight, the metering goes to hell in a room. Or, the meter may be non-functional due to corrosion, old solder joints, aged components, etc.  Picking up a camera made in the 1960s and expecting it to work like new seems to be a quality found only with photographers.  Even purely mechanical cameras can have problems caused by old seized lubricants, bad materials used in manufacturing, and things do age.  I know I don't work quite as well as I did 40 years ago.  This particular Autoreflex T seems to work fine, but I still think the metering is a bit suspect indoors.  However, since the shutter speeds are not electronic, I can always shoot in manually, instead of in shutter priority mode.  It certainly has a gratifying solid-sounding shutter and is built very well.

I shot some photos while out in the cold winter temperatures that we have been enduring for the past few weeks in Michigan.  Black and white film is great for winter, especially for subjects that have great contrast, such as snow and anything not snow.

The icy Huron River, just W of Zeeb Road.

On Jan. 18, my friend Cheryl and I checked out the Huron River near Zeeb Road.  There is a nice trail to some nice riffle areas, but i chose to shoot the more placid upstream with its reflections and ice flotsam coming down towards us.

It was only about 15°F, but for some reason I cold chilled more quickly than usual, and Cheryl's Nikon FM2N decided it didn't like the cold either.  I had also brought along my Nikkormat EL, and it too, decided to stop working in the cold!

Cheryl borrowed my tripod to shoot some scenes with her Nikon FM2N. 

I am pleased with the images that I got with the 40mm 1.8 lens.  It seems quite sharp, and I look forward to shooting more with it.

Is the Autoreflex series a good buy?  Back in the 1960s -1985 or so, there were a lot of different SLR brands.  Some makers, such as Nikon , Minolta, Canon, and Pentax were able to retain their following and incrementally improve their SLR bodies and features.  Konica, Yashica, Olympus, Topcon and Miranda all had some outstanding cameras with great glass.  None of them survived as top SLR makers after 1990.  Well, Yashica did, only because of the Contax contract.  Konica's last SLR was made by Chinon, though the Hexanon lenses were probably made by Konica.  Because the AR-mount lenses are so good, they often command a higher premium with people using them on mirrorless cameras.   If you find a good used Autoreflex T or T3, or even a TC, go for it.  You should be able to pick one up in the $30 and less range.

US 23 was closed due to another accident, so the truckers came through town.

As I stated above, older cameras with an unknown history may need to be cleaned, calibrated and freshened up with new mirror foam and door seals.  Most of the Autoreflex cameras required Mercury cells, too.  It's up to you whether or not a CLA costing about $70  is worth the trouble for a camera that you paid $25 for.  On the other hand, if the cosmetics are good, the mechanics are sound, and you want a reliable shooter, look into the Konica Autoreflex series.

My walk home is a lot more fun photographically with the sun up longer.

Youthful dedication.

My office at work.  The exposure looks dead-on.