Batteries and Cameras!

I thought it might be useful to publish a post with useful information about film cameras and batteries.  After handling many hundreds of cameras over the course of years of  selling estates and getting cameras ready for the FPP School Donation Program, as well as doing my own thing with my own photography, I find that it's been an overlooked topic, so I hope that you find this a helpful resource.

A typical manual SLR needs just  1.5 - 3V to run the exposure system

One of the things about using film vs digital cameras, is that in general, film cameras need far less power than their digital counterparts. Don't forget that that digital wonder is basically a small computer with a viewing screen, operating an auto-focus system.  All that takes a considerable amount of stored energy in a battery such that digital cameras usually operate with rechargeable Lithium-ion (Li-on) or Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries.  Since film cameras usually need far less power, they typically use small button or penlight cells. In fact, film cameras that lack meters or any electrical operation do not need any battery power at all. A Nikon F only needs a couple of button cells to operate the Photomic head with a meter.  It can easily be used without any battery power whatsoever. An Argus C3 doesn't need a battery, nor does a Leica M3.  Most SLR cameras that were sold before the late 1970s only need a battery to power the light meter, and lacking that, work just fine without power, although you may need an external light meter or maybe you just want to use Sunny-16 or the Black Cat Exposure Chart.  Once the 1980s kicked in, cameras became more sophisticated, and required more power, especially if the camera is an auto-focus model.  All those little motors in the lenses, film winding/rewinding, exposure systems, and flashes require more power, which led to larger batteries or battery packs in the camera bodies.  In many SLR systems, an external winder may use 4-8 AA cells, which of course adds significant weight.  As manufacturers refined the winding systems, by the time auto-focus SLRs became available, the power to run them was contained in a 6V battery, or 2 3V batteries that fit easily into the grip.

Adding automation requires more computing/battery power.

Light meters have typically required one or two button cells in a camera. Before the 1980s, cameras that required power for the light meter almost always used Mercury cells.  The reason is that Mercury cells gave out a continuous 1.35 V and lasted a long time, and when they went dead, that was it. There was no slow decline in voltage that would give bad meter readings. Then, Mercury compounds were found to leach into the waste systems in landfills, etc., and the Mercury cells were banned.  Probably far more cells were used in those light-up sneakers that kids wore than all the cameras ever made. Anyhow, that was the end of them, and older cameras that used those cells were often replaced with newer models by the owners, or the owners scoured the stores for old stock Mercury cells. Old stock cells were still available online until at least 2002.

Cell versus Battery
People often call 1.5 v cells batteries, but technically, they are not. A battery is a group of cells producing a larger output of power than a single cell.  Button cells, AA, AAA, C, D cells are not batteries.  A 9V transistor battery IS a battery, as are any of the batteries that are more than 1.35 or 1.5V. Your 12 volt car battery contains a bunch of lead-acid powered cells that when joined together, provides 12 volts. Generally, we just lump these power sources under the term battery in common usage, but it's good to know the difference.

Button Cells
Button cells are extremely common in film cameras, especially SLRs, where they typically power the meter and some electronics.  They are ubiquitous, and their compact size and 1.5V output usually has them installed in cameras in pairs, so that they provide a 3V output.  The most common size is the Alkaline LR-44 cell, followed by the 76S - which is identical in size to the LR-44, but is a Silver-Oxide cell that provides 1.55V with a longer life than the LR-44. A less common button cell in later cameras is the PX-625A. It's now mostly used to replace the PX-625 Mercury cells, but it has a higher voltage than the cell it replaces which may cause meters to be a stop or so off in the readout.

AAA and AA cells
Yes, these are what us old-timers call penlight batteries.  They are most typically used to power flashes, and in many older point-and shoots, they provide all the power for the camera functions.  Some auto-focus SLRs used them too. The Nikon F100, N90, N8008, and the N2000 all use AA cells as they provide enough power for many rolls of film before they poop out.  In addition, the AA and AAA cells are easy to find, unlike some of the esoteric batteries that I will now discuss.

Lithium batteries.
These batteries use more modern technology to deliver lots of power yet, remain compact enough to use in a camera. The late 1980s saw these start to be used in a variety of caameras, but most notably in consumer-level auto-focus SLR cameras. There are a bewildering number of battery types out there, and sometimes you'll find an oddball battery that may cost as much as your $15 Nikon that you found at the thrift shop.

Nickel Metal Hydride - NiMH Batteries
Typically, these are rechargeable cells, such as AA and AAA.  They can be used in place of the Alkaline cells of the same size, and the prices are very low.  They make a lot of sense for power-hungry flash units, and can usually be recharged a at least a hundred times before they need to be replaced.

Oddball Alkaline batteries 
The first one that comes to mind is the 6V 4LR44 battery which is used in the Canon AE-1 and AE-1 Program, as well as the Pentax 6x7.  Another is the 6V PX27G.  In some cases you can take 4 LR-44 cells and tape them together to replace a 4LR44 battery (which seems to be the reason for that designation).  If you have a Yashica rangefinder camera, you'll also be looking for oddball cells, so look at http://yashica-guy.com/document/chrono2.html for more information on your Yashica rangefinder camera.

Nickel-Cadmium cells
NiCds were popular in the 1970-80s for rechargeable battery packs, especially in professional cameras such as the Hasselblad EL, the Rolleiflex SLX, and in various flash units.  They fell out of favor when Lithium-ion and Ni-MH cells became more common and cheaper in the 1990s.  NiCds also have fewer recharge cycles than the newer technologies.  However, in some of the cameras that required them, you can still source re-built NiCd packs.  Cadmium is a toxic metal, and the old cells need to be disposed of safely.  Some cameras that took AA alkaline cells warn against using NiCd cells because they typically only provide 1.2V each.

What about those cameras (and light meters) that used Mercury Cells?
There are a few solutions:
1. Replace the cell(s) with an Alkaline equivalent.  The PX-625A is going to be the most common replacement.  Of course, it will provide 1.5, not 1.3 volts, and may affect your meter reading.  Some cameras use a circuit that the higher voltage still gives an accurate reading. You can compensate with the cameras that are affected by setting your ISO dial to a one stop lower setting.  That is, if you are using ISO 400 film, set the dial to ISO 200.  To be honest, with C-41 films and most black and white films, there is enough latitude that it won't make a huge difference.  You can check it against sunny-16 using a gray card and see what your meter reads. If it's off, you'll know what direction to change it.
2. Replace with a Wein cell - these are basically a modified Zinc-air hearing aid cell with an adaptor to fit the PX-625 chamber.
3. Replace with an appropriate-sized Zinc-air hearing aid cell, and use a spacer to keep the cell in place in the battery chamber. The Duracell 675 hearing aid battery will work in many of the cameras and light meters that require a mercury cell. You may have to shim it in place to not move around.
4. Purchase an MR-9 adapter (http://www.criscam.com/) and use a 76S or LR-44 cell.  The MR-9 adapter contains a diode that drops the voltage to 1.3V, and while it may seem a bit pricey, it can be moved from camera to camera as needed.  It's the best solution if you want to use a Luna Pro light meter.
5. You can use the camera without powering the light meter, and use an external meter instead.  However, some cameras, such as the Nikon FE, require power to fire the shutter at any speed because the aperture-priority mode requires power, whereas the Nikon FM is fully manual, and the shutter can work without power. The Pentax K1000 and the Pentax Spotmatics are also fine without using a battery for the meter, as are most M42-mount SLRs.  Many of the older Canon  SLRs such as the FTb work fine battery-less.  You just have to use an external meter.

NOT ALL CAMERAS NEEDED BATTERIES FOR METER POWER
There are numerous cameras that used solar cells to power the exposure system.  The Olympus Trip 35, Konica EYE, and the Canon DEMI are good examples.  Most of the examples date from the 1960s and 70s.  A ring of cells around the front of the lens is a sure bet that the camera is powered by a Selenium meter.

STORAGE
It makes good sense to store your camera without the cells or battery in it if you are not going to use it for awhile.  This holds especially true for cameras that use AA aand AAA cells - which will leak over time and ruin the camera.  I can't stress this enough. I have seen far too many contacts ruined to the point of no-return by leaking AA cells.  Whether it's a camera or a flash unit, remove the cells before you put it away for any length of time.  Button cells seem much less likely to cause problems in storage, nor do Lithium batteries.  The real culprits are the AA and AAA cells which can do the damage when they leak over time.

You can store fresh batteries in in the fridge if you wish to prolong their storage life, but I have never tried it to see if it makes a difference.  Certainly high-heat will degrade them, since chemical reactions are accelerated by higher temperatures.


BUYING BATTERIES
With the advent of digital photography, the market for camera batteries shifted to rechargeables, and the prices for non-rechargeable camera batteries have gone up.  If you look for a CR123A battery at your local store, be prepared for sticker shock.  I buy most of my button cells and Lithium batteries online, either via Amazon or eBay.  A pack of 100 LR-44 cells can be had for less than $15 online.  There are plenty of online sources for batteries, but I still buy my AA and AAA cells  locally.

BATTERY CROSS-REFERENCE CHART - Not all manufacturers use the same numeric designation for a particular size, but this chart will be helpful.

CAMERAS AND POWER SOURCES (obviously NOT a complete list, but it's a starting point)

PX-625 Mercury cells:
NIKON - F Photomic prism, Nikkormat FT, FTN;
CANON- QL-17, EXEE, F-1, FT QL, FTb, FX, Canonet 28, TL, TLb, TX
OLYMPUS - OM-1
LEICA - CL
MINOLTA - SR-T series, Hi-Matic 7, 7S, 7SII, 9;
PETRI - Color 35,
KONICA - Auto S, Auto S2, Auto S3, Autoreflex T, Autoreflex TC, C35, FP,
KOWA SE, SET; ROLLEI 35,  YASHICA TL-Electro-X,

PX-400 Mercury cells 
A great number of Pentax Spotmatics used this size Mercury cell.  However, you can use a silver-oxide cell without fear of affecting the exposure accuracy.  The Spotmatics use a bridge circuit so that whether the source is 1.35V or 1.5V, you'll get the same result.  I recommend using a 392 (LR-41) silver-oxide cell for the Spotmatic SP series, and a PX625A for the Spotmatic F.

PX-27 Mercury batteries (5.6V)
MINOX LX, Minox 35 series;
ROLLEI 35 TE, ROLLEI 35 SE, ROLLEI 35 LED

LR-44 or S-76 cells (1.5V) 
(Typically there are 2 in series, for 3V total. You can often use a 1/3N battery, which replaces 2 LR-44 cells. They tend to be more expensive than the 2 LR-44s , though.)

NIKON - Nikkormat FT2, FT3; Nikon FM, FE, F2, F3, FM2, FM2N, FE2, FA, EM, FG, FG-20, FM3A, FM-10
CANON - T60
OLYMPUS - XA series, OM-2, OM-10, OM-4, OM-PC
PENTAX - K1000, ME, MG, LX, Super Program, P30T,
MINOLTA - X370, X570, X700; CLE, XD series, XG series,
LEICA- R4
YASHICA - CONTAX - Contax 139, Yashica FX D, FX-3, FX-7,
KONICA - FP-1

AA
CANON- AF35ML, Sure Shot AF10, T-50, T-70, T-90
NIKON - N4004, N8008, N90, F100, F4, F5, L135AF,
KONICA- FS-1, MG, TC-X
MINOLTA 9000

AAA 
CANON AL-1,
KONICA FT-1
MINOLTA MAXXUM 5000, 7000
NIKON N2020

4LR44 (6V)(= PX28, A544, 476A)
CANON AE-1, AE-1P, A-1, New F-1, AT-1, AV-1
NIKON Nikkormat EL, EL2
YASHICA Electro 35CC, Yashica FR, Yashica FX-1,

CR-2 Batteries (3V) (Most SLRs use 2)
NIKON- APS Pronea 6i, N55, N65, N75
PENTAX - MZ-S, Z-5, MZ-10, ZX-10,
CANON-  Rebel 2000,  Rebel K2, EOS IX, Sure Shot 130u, Sure Shot Classic 120
MINOLTA - QTSi, XTSi, Maxxum 5, HTSi 
CONTAX G1, G2, T3,


CR-123A (3V) (Most SLRs use 2)
NIKON - N60, N80, N70, One-Touch 90 Zoom,
CANON - EOS Rebel G, ELAN 7, EOS 30v, Sure-Shot 105 zoom, Sure Shot 60 zoom, Sure Shot 70 zoom, Sure Shot 80 zoom, Sure Shot A-1, WP-1, Sure Shot M, Sure Shot Max
MINOLTA - Maxxum 7, Maxxum 9
YASHICA T4
CONTAX T2,


CR-223 or DL223A (6V)
may replace 2 CR-123 in some cameras

2CR-5 (6V)
CANON- EOS 650, EOS 620, 750, 850, 100, EOS 3, A2E, Sure Shot Zoom XL, EOS-1V
NIKON - N50, N6006
MINOLTA - 7000i, 9xi
PENTAX- SFX, SF-1; SF-7, SF-10;
KONICA Hexar, Yashica T2


Okay, you have read this far!  If you have a fully manual, non-meter camera such as this one, no battery needed!   You are ready for that desert island trip.

Out and About with the Yashica ME1

A funky little 35mm camera came my way recently, and one that I knew little about, at that.  A Yashica ME1 is an attractive little zone-focus camera manufactured in Japan in 1970 and Brazil, starting in 1977. My example was made in Brazil. What sets this little camera apart from other small 35s, is the clean design of the top plate, which features only a shutter button, hot shoe, and a frame counter.  The film advance wheel is on the lower rear L of the camera, and the film rewind is on the bottom right.  This is an all-black plastic camera that features the typical ASA setting dial around the lens with a CdS cell on the front lens plate.  The film speed settings range from an ISO of 25 to 500.  The 38mm f/2.8 lens is pretty much right there with a slew of other compact 35s that proliferated in the 70s and early 80s.  Like many other cameras of its time, it requires a Mercury PX635 cell to power the camera, but I popped in a LR44, and the camera sprang to life. With b&w and C-341 film, the exposure difference between the two battery voltages should not be a problem.  The shutter speeds range from a paltry 1/60 - 1/360 sec, and the shutter locks if you leave the lenscap on or do not have enough light (nice feature).  The exposure is all automatic, and you look in the viewfinder to see if the needle is in the "green zone."  The self-timer (ca. 8 seconds) is in a typical spot to the right of the lens barrel.  Focus is indicated by the icons, 1m, 1.5m, 3m, and infinity, with feet and meters on the opposite side of the lens.

In the hand, this camera feels very natural,and the bottom L-positioned thumb wheel film advance seems perfect for this little camera. You can wind on and shoot pretty quickly. While its specifications are quite ordinary, it is certainly capable of taking good photographs under typical conditions.  One feature that surprised me is the extra little window in the viewfinder that shows your distance setting and whether you will need to use the parallax correction markings in the bright viewfinder.  That is a nice feature, and the needle in the right side of the window indicates whether your exposure will be adequate.  The red zone means you'll require a flash, or the shutter locks up, unless you set the aperture manually, off the A position.

from the manual via Butkus.org

I loaded a roll of Svema 200 b&w film, and shot a test roll last month.  I developed it in the new FPP Super Monobath for 3.5 min at 24°C.  The Svema film is a bit punchy - contrasty with some grain, but overall, the images look pretty good for basically a p&s 35mm camera.

Elsewhere, I have seen the ME1 compared to the Minolta Hi-Matic G and the Olympus Trip 35, which is a fair comparison.  However, I would give the Hi-Matic a better overall score due to its more robust build. Same for the Trip 35, which is in a class by itself because it does not require batteries, and if you have one that works, you know that it is a great little camera. My example of the Yashica ME1 came with a dented filter ring, which is too bad.  It does take 46mm filters like many other small 35s in its class.  The Yashica ME1 is an attractive little camera, and its Brazilian manufacture makes it an unusual camera among 35mm cameras of the 1970s.   Prices on ebay for this camera range from $15-$55.

Yashica produced over 40 different 35mm non-SLR models, and the Electro 35, Lynx and Minister series are usually the first ones that come to mind. Most are true rangefinder cameras, but a few are zone-focus.  The ME1 is a far different camera than the metal-bodied Electros, being more compact, but still having good Yashica glass.  It's not going to be the be-all compact 35, but it is easy to use, lightweight, and certainly affordable.  Unlike the much larger Electro series, it won't suffer from oddball battery requirements and bad electronics.  Certainly worth a try if you see one in a shop. If you need a manual, it hardly goes without saying that you'll find one at Jim Butkus' site.

Yashica Fun - The FX-7 Super

It has been a while since I have shot with a Yashica SLR.   My experience with them to this point, was with the older M-42 screw-mount cameras, most notably the TL Electro X.

I recently came into possession of a very nice and refurbished Yashica FX-7 Super.  I certainly wasn't looking to expand into the realm of Contax/Yashica mount cameras (C/Y), but this one looked so beautiful that I had to have it for a while and try it out.  After doing some online research, I discovered that the FX series of cameras were made by Chinon (who also made the Canon T-60, Nikon FM-10, and numerous other low-end 35mm SLRs).  This is after Kyocera took on the Yashica brand.  I used to own a (Kyocera) Contax G1 rangefinder, and while it had many attributes that I liked, it was slow with the AF, and the top LCD was exhibiting bleeding. However, the Zeiss Planar 45mm T* lens was excellent. 

With Kyocera taking on the Contax marque, they of course, released some very fine 35mm SLRs under the Contax name, all with lovely Zeiss T* lenses.  Meanwhile, the Yashica bodies, aimed for a lower price point, came with Yashica-branded lenses. Mine has Yashica ML 50mm f/2.  The beauty is that the two brands shared the same C/Y mount, meaning that a lightweight, inexpensive body could have a fine Planar T* lens on it. That is certainly one attraction for the FX bodies.

My FX-7 Super has been recovered in dark blue leatherette by a previous owner, and new foam seals installed.  The camera is in excellent condition.  As a small SLR, it has the following features:

• Shutter speeds - B, 1 - 1/1000 sec.
• Flash Sync Speed - 1/125th sec
• Top deck shutter release with threads for remote
• Self-timer [10 sec]
• Hot shoe with extra control contact
• molded hand grip on right side
• +/- LEDs for exposure indication in viewfinder
• manual exposure mode only
• viewfinder with center focus spot - split-mage microprism
• requires 2 LR-44 cells for meter only
• half-press of shutter release activates meter
• Through-the-lens, full-aperture center weighted light metering with SPD cell
• ISO range of 12-1600 set on shutter speed dial
• 52mm filter thread on the lens with this body.
• tripod socket centered on the bottom

This is a fairly basic set of features, but in practical use, it's all you really need to take photos.  The camera body has no sharp edges, and it is nice to hold.  Its fairly quiet copal square vertical metal shutter sounds "snappy". The camera weighs just over a pound, and it really is a joy to use. 

There are lots of sites with information on the FX-3 and FX-7 series, and I am not going to repeat it all here.  One feature they all share is the discussion on the disintegration of the leatherette.  If you have one, you would be wise to recover it, and I have to say that the navy blue on mine is gorgeous.

Shooting experience

This is an all-manual SLR camera that is compact, precise in operation, and everything is located just right.  It makes a Pentax K1000 seem like a cloddish camera.  I have been carrying it around with me for a few weeks now, and it's definitely going places.  The 50mm f/2 lens is just fine, and maybe in the future I will acquire a Zeiss T* 50mm lens for it.  For now though, it's all I need. 

Photos

Here are a smattering of b&w images taken in NJ and MI, and I have to say that the camera works great.   I can recommend this camera to anyone looking for a manual SLR that is lightweight and of relatively recent manufacture (mid-1980s).   While the Yashica C/Y mount may not have as many lenses and accessories as the Nikon/Canon/Pentax/Olympus systems, you will find the lenses that you need for most types of shooting.  Aside from the Yashica and Contax brands, there are lenses from Tamron (Adaptall-2), Soligor, Sigma, and others that have the C/Y mount.

Mat, hotel room, expired Plus-X

Mike's hula girl, expired Plus-X

hydrant, expired Plus-X

Mike Raso, expired Plus-X

 shadows on steps, Tasma NK-2

Ann Arbor Subraru, Tasma NK-2

Argo trestle, Tasma NK-2

somewhere in Ohio on I80, in the rain, Tasma NK-2

It's been a month!

Yes, it has been a month since my last post. June has been busy, as I have been away over 3  weekends. From the 10-12 of June Adrienne and I were in Bellaire, MI for the Michigan Entomological Society Meeting.  From the 16-19, I was at Photostock in Harbor Springs. And I returned Tuesday from the 23-28 trip to Amenia, NY for Adrienne's mom's 90th birthday.  Lots of miles on my Ford Escape, lots of film to process (starting today),  and lots of digital files to edit. One of the things I have greatly appreciated is being able to use my smartphone (Android) to update during a trip. The images and comments become sort of like placeholders to remind me where I was on these trips. They also inform family and friends where the heck I am at.  I do try and keep a written diary of the photo aspects of a trip, but Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook are useful for documenting my travels.  Of course, the snaps I take for Instagram are not of the quality that my real cameras take, but they have their own low-fi charm.

Preparing my equipment for any particular trip is always an interesting dilemma. What cameras do I bring? How many bags? What film? Which digital system?  You are probably saying "This guy has too many cameras."  Truth is, I probably do, but i have pared down quite a bit.  My digital gear is in 3 categories:

• Fuji X100S -- ideal for street shooting, gatherings, and travel.  Limited to only the 35mm-equivalent f/2 lens.   Image quality is fantastic. 
• Nikon D200 or D3200 - full range of lenses, etc.  The 3200 is lighter, more compact, and has a better high ISO ability, but the D200 is more versatile, better overall camera, but fewer MPs.
• Nikon 1J1 - Don't laugh -- this little camera is very capable, and my favorite lenses on it are the wide-angle (28mm equiv.) and my 25mm CCTV lens with the swirly bokeh.  It's a compact, non-threatening, and very creative tool.

Film cameras are a whole different environment.  35mm or medium format? Polaroid or Instax? Toy cameras? Rangefinders? Which SLR system?  and so it goes. June has found me on a Nikon SLR kick, and mostly I have been using the Nikon FG, F3HP, and FM2N.  The FG now sits in my all-purpose bag with the Yashica A TLR, Holga, and Vivitar ultra-wide P&S.  With a 50mm 1.8 and the 36-72mm zoom, for the FG,  it is a nice package.  I love the viewfinder in the F3HP.  As a glasses-wearer, it is perfect for me.  I also know that the F3 is pretty much the perfect camera, unless one is using flash a lot.  The Nikon FM2N is another great camera, and I should use it more than I do.  All manual, and I like the metering.  Solid.

I knew that I would not be doing much photography at the MES meeting, so I took only the Fuji X100S, Nikon D200 bag, and Nikon FG.  

For Photostock, I tried to limit my choices, and ended up taking the Mamiya C330 bag, Fuji X100S, Nikon F3HP bag, and the all-purpose bag, with a sack of Dianas and Holgas for good measure.

For the New York State Trip -- Nikon 1J1 bag, D3200 bag with external flash for the birthday celebration, all-purpose bag, and Nikon FM2N bag. Oh, and also the Leica M2.  The only thing I had forgotten was a Gorillapod for some low-angle shots. My carbon-fiber tripod with a ball head is ALWAYS in the back of the car, and it gets used a lot.  I brought a 19mm lens to use with the FM2N along with a deep yellow filter to shoot a roll of FPP color Infrachrome film.  I hope to have it developed soon.

I know one can go really minimalist for a trip, and I have done so in the past.  However, if I have the room, I may as well bring what I think I'll need.  A long trip has many photo opportunities, and I hate it when I am limited by the tools I can use for a shot.  Also, as you can see, I am not averse to shooting digital, and am not limited to only film.  It all depends on the situation and my desired result.  All these things are tools to be used to get whatever I am after.  It has been a busy and productive month, and  I hope to process all of my film over the next week or so.  In the meantime, here are a few shots from the digital cameras.

fence, Amenia, NY, June 27

Dingmans Falls, PA, June 23

Alley, Clare, MI June 10.

farm at Birchwood Inn, June 16

A.D. Coleman in foreground, Photostock, June 18.

Fishtown, Leland, MI June 19.

Alex, June 16, Photostock.

Letchworth State Park, NY, June 28.

Amenia Burial Ground, June 26.

Some of the images shown here will be part of photosets elsewhere, and some are parts of long-term projects.   I have some specific shows/print projects in mind for the Amenia Burial Ground and the old Murphy Crest farm in Amenia, NY.  Once I develop my film, I'll know here I stand in regards to other imagery.