|Hanging to dry.|
While my comment above may seem a bit harsh, let me explain. You will learn nothing about development if your first inclination is to short-cut a process that you know little about. I get it, we all like things to be easy. But things get easier the more you do them and become more familiar with the routine. Think about the first time you drove a car. So many things to watch for! After a short while, you get comfortable with it. After a long while, you hardly have to think about what you are doing, but you still have to pay attention. It's no different with developing film. You can't get to your destination without putting in the time. You can't expect it to be any different with photography. The negative is your base piece of information. Film costs money. Why would you want to potentially ruin an image that you took the time to compose and shoot. Does your photography mean that little to you? Believe me, many have tried quick methods, "time-savers" for developing film, and those methods have been found to be a waste. If they were not, they would have been widely adopted. But they were not. Some of the reasons we see people wanting shortcuts are probably as follows:
(1) coming entirely from a digital background to film
(2) not being mentored by a film user, nor taking any class in traditional photography
(3) not reading any books about darkroom practice
(4) impatience and/or ignorance because of the above
So, you have some b&w film. It's easy to develop if you keep things simple. To start, use only one developer. Use only one type of film. Then, when you think you have a handle on things, you can begin to explore other developer/film combinations. Some people get so into trying many films and developers that they never really achieve a consistent result to know what actually works well. So, keep it simple and become proficient with one film and developer so that you know what a good negative looks like. I have lost track of how many rolls I have developed, -- it's certainly in the thousands. Even then, I do not get complacent.
daylight developing tank with adjustable reels (Paterson style tank)
plastic jugs for developer and fixer. You can use water as a stop bath.
plastic measuring cups or graduated cylinders for mixing
sink with running water
film changing bag or a completely dark space to load the film into the reels to be placed into the developing tank.
Some of these items are available at the Film Photography Project Store.
About chemicals -- Most b&w photochemistry is relatively benign, and except for used fixer, it is safe to dump down the drain. Unless you are doing industrial volumes, that is. I don't think that applies to any of us. While I may say Kodak D-76, it's actually available more cheaply from Freestyle as Legacy Pro L-76 developer, which is what I have been using as of late.
You can download an app for your smartphone that will time your development process from the folks at the Massive Development Chart. That will also save you time looking up development times online.
When I started developing my own film in 2000 after a hiatus of 26 years, I had just the basic equipment and supplies. I didn't have a darkroom then, and used a changing bag. I practiced a lot with a junk roll of film to get adept at loading it in the changing bag. I used plastic reels then, and still do. They just work better for me -- thousands of rolls later, I still use them.
My recommendation for a film/developer combo --
Ilford HP-5+ and Kodak D76 mixed 1 part water to 1 part stock solution for 11 minutes developing time at 20 degrees C. This makes the developer a one-shot use, and is quite economical. That makes total time for development, fixing, washing at about 25 minutes.
There are numerous videos on YouTube to show how to develop film. Most are useful if you have not done it before. The Ilford pdf on b&w developing is also very useful. I highly recommend The Basic Darkroom Book by Tom Grimm, but there are many other books available.
Once you have your negatives dry, you can scan them and do whatever post-processing you wish. Or, you can print them in a darkroom, which is a whole chapter by itself. Store your negatives in strips in the PrintFile Archival preservers. I use the sheets that hold 7 strips of 35mm, 5 across. You may like the ones that hold 6 strips of 6 across. I use the 120 sheets too. Store them in 3 ring binders. label them so that you know what, when, where, why, and how. Keep a notebook and record your developing.
Does this sound like a lot of work? It really is not. But if you are unable to develop at home, you can send it out to The Darkroom and they will do it. However, you are missing out at one of the things that makes film photography special. Take the time to do it yourself, and you will see and appreciate the magic.
|Bill Bresler, shot on HP-5+.|