Showing posts with label Kentmere 100. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kentmere 100. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 01, 2023

Becoming a Confident Photographer


Over the years that I have been writing this blog (since late 2004), it’s become sort of a series of articles about cameras, film, lenses, and some how-to posts.  Occasionally, I dip into travelogues and news about the field.   A few times, I discuss more intangible things.  Back in early November, I visited Manteo, NC and the Outer Banks.  Although we have lived in NC since mid-2019, it was my first trip to coastal NC since our move here, which is a 7-8 hour drive, or 444 miles to Manteo.  It’s been nearly 30 years since I’d been to the Outer Banks, and while I have some memories from that trip, I was never in one place long enough to really appreciate the area, and it was before I was a serious photographer.  

This trip was a good getaway for 4 nights in Manteo, the largest town on Roanoke Island  - and the gateway to the Outer Banks.  I had brought my Nikon F3HP and my Nikon FE, my Fujica GL690, as well as some toy cameras, including the Ansco Pix Panorama and the Lomo Sprocket Rocket.  The only digital was my iPhone.  Early November may seem like an odd time to visit the Outer Banks, but most of the tourists are gone, the weather is usually good, and lodging is a bit cheaper.  We rented a cottage right in Manteo, and everything was walkable to the waterfront. I used the F3 only with b&w film, and the FE had only Kodak Pro Image 100.  Most of the film I shoot is b&w, no matter the format, but having one camera with color for colorful subjects is always a good idea.

Bodie Island Lighthouse, Ansco Pix Panorama, Kentmere 100

On a trip such as this one, I tend to stick to a couple of films, and I chose HP-5+ and Kentmere 100 for the F3.  My main lens was the 35mm f/2 Nikkor, but I occasionally used other lenses when I thought it was necessary - the 24mm f/2.8 Nikkor, 56mm f/1.6 Lensbaby Velvet, 85mm f/2 Nikkor, and the 75-150mm f/4 Series E telephoto.   For the FE, I only used the 50mm f/2 Nikkor.  The only other b&w film I shot was a roll of Rollei RPX 25, on a dramatic windy day along the coast of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. 

Elizabeth II, Nikon F3HP, Series E 75-150 zoom, HP-5

Now, what does the title of this post have to do with the above information?  Well, as I was shooting the scenes that I encountered, I was quite sure that I would get some really good photographs.  I was confident in my equipment and lens choices, I was using films that I had a long experience with, and I was confident in my decisions of aperture and points of view.  This is not always the case for many photographers, and certainly, not true of me years ago.  Confidence really only comes with experience.  Had I used a camera that I was less familiar with, or a different film stock that I was unsure about, a good photo might not have resulted.  

big winds, big waves.  Nikon F3HP, HP-5.


To people getting started in photography, and especially in using film, you should try keeping things simple until you understand the capabilities and limitations of the equipment and films that you are using.  It doesn't just end with the film stock, but how it's developed.  There are a lot of folks that would have had some great images, but screwed up in the film developing.  It's less likely to happen if you are consistent in your film, techniques, and developers.  

Nikon F3HP, Lensbaby Velvet 56, HP-5

Let me explain via my way of working.  I have owned my Nikon F3HP since 2008, and it's still in mint condition because I have certainly taken care with it.  While I have many other Nikon bodies, I'm very fond of the F3 because of the way it handles, and it's very dependable.  Because I wear glasses, I really appreciate the high-eyepoint prism and viewfinder.  So, I see pretty much all of what is going to be in the negative.  Second, the 35mm f/2 Nikkor has become my walk-around lens with this camera, and I know that the lens is going to render things perfectly.  I used Kentmere 100 and the HP-5+ because I like the results with those films, and I have always had good experiences with them in the developing tanks, plus they scan really well.  There have been times when I might try any number of odd films, but on a trip such as this one, I stayed with the tried and true to get the images I wanted.  Was I confident in my ability? Of course, I was.  When I ended up looking at the negatives,  and then the scans, I was really happy to see that everything came out the way I had envisioned.  

Cape Hatteras National Seashore, Nikon F3HP, RPX25


Now, to throw some uncertainty in -- I was also shooting with an Ansco Pix Panorama camera - a toy camera with a 2 element 28mm lens and a 13x36mm cropped frame. I had loaded it with Kentmere 100 - which on a sunny day is perfect, but in the days at the Outer Banks, I had only used it on cloudy days.  I didn't know if anything that I shot with it would be satisfactory.  But, that's one of the joys of using such cameras - any time things work out great with it, it's as if I have been given a gift.  I was confident in my choice of image framing, but to have satisfactory results was indeed, a great thing.  I also shot a roll of Lomochrome Purple in my Sprocket Rocket, which gives me a 24x72mm panoramic negative.  In this case, I really had no idea of how the images might appear, since it’s a strange film, and a pretty simple camera.  But then again, it’s always a bonus when those things work out.  One also has to be able to not over-think things and just let it play out. After I developed the film and scanned it in, it was apparent that while there were a handful of shots I really liked, that film isn’t the best for overcast days.

Bodie Is. Lighthouse, Sprocket Rocket, Lomochrome Purple


Becoming a confident photographer is not always going to result in great images, because well, that’s the thing about photography.  Just when you think you are doing great, it’s always possible for the photo gods to thwart you with any number of things to mess you up - such as setting the camera at the highest shutter speed instead of A (for aperture priority) and not realizing it because you are so enamored with the scenes in front of you.  Forgetting what film was in the camera and using a red filter with a color film,  forgetting to change the ISO setting for the new roll of film, or realizing that after the 36th frame, that the film never got properly seated in the take-up spool, and you have been shooting blanks for the past hour.  Then of course, are the darkroom foibles.  The thing is, each of these missteps are bits of experience, and make one a more confident and more competent photographer.  If any photographer tells you that none of these things have ever happened to them, it’s quite possible that he or she is lying, or that they haven’t been doing it long enough.  


My point is, becoming confident is achieved by using your tools every day, and keeping the process of photography simple.  I can say this, after 20+ years of serious photography-- that while trying different films and developers is perfectly okay, you’ll eventually decide on what films give you results consistent with your expectations.  Stick with them.  The same goes for cameras and lenses.  I’m a poor example of that aspect, but in my years of experience, it’s helped me to be able to know all about different cameras and films, because I do like to educate others about photography.  But in the end, I know exactly what gear that I’ll take to get the shots I want.  

hunting cabin, Alligator River NWR, Nikon FE, Pro Image 100

Having confidence in your equipment is important.  If you are starting out in photography, nothing is more discouraging than a camera that isn’t working properly.  There is a reason why a an SLR such as the Pentax K1000 has been recommended as a starter SLR - there are very few things that can go wrong, because the camera is so limited in its suite of controls - but it does have the basics.  A K1000 isn’t my favorite camera by any means, but one that works properly with a decent lens puts the basic elements of control - aperture, shutter speed, and focus at your fingertips.  You need only to compose and pick the best choice for exposure to make an image.  Use a bare-bones SLR and one or two film types for a year, and you’ll be amazed at how much better a photographer you are at the end of the year - and I mean use it every day, when possible  The same can be said for any camera, whether it is film or digital.  Use it with the same lens, and shoot almost every day, and see how you progress.  

Moon Jellyfish, NC Aquarium, Nikon FE, Pro Image 100


The world of photography is a huge umbrella, with all sorts of niche endeavors, types of equipment, digital and film, alt-process, hybrid workflows, and then types of subject matter.  You cannot possibly do it all, but whatever you do, become good at doing it.  Maybe it’s large format - which is something that I have never really had the patience for.  Maybe you are really into alternative processes, and all the best to you going down that rabbit hole, which is part alchemy and mastering the technical aspects.  I have respect for anyone that chooses to do things the hard way and can produce wonderful images.   That’s what I love about photography - there really is no "best way" - there are just ways that work for the person doing it.  For a long time it was considered that knowing and practicing the Zone System would lead you into producing better results.  I don’t think a lot of street photographers would agree with that, but if you want to use the Zone System, go for it.  There’s merit in knowing enough about it to at least understand it and applying the principles when it seems necessary.  However, millions of photographs have been made without ever thinking about the Zone System. 

  

salt marsh and islands, Manteo, Nikon F3HP, HP-5

Another interesting choice is not just the film size, but the aspect ratio of the images.  Square format (6x6) on 120 film is a favorite for many, but then there are those that prefer 6x7 or 6x9, or 6x17! Each of those negative sizes are different ways of seeing, and the same scene shot in each format has very different qualities.  You may find that you like square format the best, because you don’t have to worry about landscape vs portrait orientation.  

Manteo marina, Nikon F3HP, Kentmere 100

Every choice you make has an effect on the final image, from pre-visualization (if you do that), to camera, lens, film stock, filters, tripod or not, lighting, scene choice, and intangible factors such as mood (including yours, of course), intent of the photograph, and so on.  At some point, the factors that you can control become secondary to the point of the image.  It’s not that they don’t matter - but if you are a confident photographer, you hardly have to think about them, and instead think about the image.  

worn dock, Manteo, Nikon F3HP, Kentmere 100


Manteo, Nikon F3HP, Kentmere 100


If you become confident in yourself and your gear, I think you’ll find that it becomes a lot more fun to go out and make images, and your results will also be more rewarding.  At it’s most basic level, photography is pretty simple. Don’t worry so much about gear - though it is important, but the most important tool in photography is located between the ears and behind the eyes.

Nags Head Preserve, Nikon F3HP, Lensbaby Velvet 56, Kentmere 100


Saturday, February 12, 2022

The RETO Ultra Wide & Slim - all hail the return of a classic!

The new Ultra Wide & Slim

If you weren't a photographer in the 1990s, it's probably because you were too young or it just wasn't your thing at the time.  Vivitar brought out the Ultra Wide and Slim in the mid-90s and the camera became a cultish phenomenon.  Originally manufactured by the Chinese company Sunpet (and who knows, the same company may be making them now), the 22mm lens, simple use, decent results, and shirt-pocket size contributed to this camera becoming quite popular among the younger set.  Then, it dropped out of sight for a few years, to be replaced by the Yellow Peace Camera with the "super fat lens," thanks to the Japanese company, Superheadz.  I bought one in the early 2000s, and still have it, though I haven't used it in a long time because the soft plastic coating on the camera has turned to a sticky mess that's worse than a Nikon N80's grip. Considering that these are cheap cameras that are not expected to have a long life, I guess the degraded coating was never a thought. I am ALMOST finished with my 35mm toy camera issue for Monochrome Mania, and I quickly snapped up the new RETO version of the Ultra Wide and Slim when I saw them for sale on Amazon. Two days later the camera arrived in a padded Amazon envelope, and I eagerly opened up the package.

The old Yellow Peace Camera from Superheadz


For starters, the RETO UW&S is packaged just like you would see in a store, able to be hung on a display rack.  Inside the small box is a wrist strap, instructions, and a soft cloth pouch to store the camera within.  If there was such a thing as "new camera smell," I would have welcomed it, but there probably is not enough mass of plastic to do that.  

I have the "murky blue" version


After I photographed the new camera (to be included in the zine), I loaded a short roll of Ultrafine Extreme 100 (Kentmere 100) b&w film. I used a 24-exp roll because the original Vivitar model had a problem winding on with 36 exposure rolls, and I doubt that the RETO version is any different. This camera has an f/11 lens and approximately 1/125 sec shutter, so on a sunny day, ISO 100 film is perfect.  That 22mm lens really is quite good, and for a price of less than $30, the RETO UW&S is a great buy in today's market. Once you get out with this camera, it's easy to see why it became a sought-after classic, even if it was a "toy camera."  The wide angle lens does quite well, so long as you don't get the sun in the frame. There is no flash, so this is a daylight-only camera, unless you want to put in some Kodak T-Max P3200.

I took the RETO UW&S out over a couple of days and shot a variety of scenes with it.  The thing to keep in mind with any low-fi 35mm camera is that simple compositions work best.  Fine details don't always look so great, so a strong composition is a good idea.  However, this camera's lens is pretty sharp, as you can see from the shots below.  I developed the roll of Ultrafine Extreme 100 in D-96 for 8.5 minutes, and I have to say that the negatives look great.  


Here's a few examples from my roll.








As you can see, the images are fairly sharp, there's a bit of vignetting, and the exposures are satisfactory on 100 ISO film. The very top photo was partly cloudy, but I think it really captured the scene.  

You can purchase the RETO Ultra Wide and Slim from just about any photographic online store, such as the Film Photography Project Store, What would really be nice is to see these on the racks in major retailers, photo stores, and gift shops.  This is a fun camera to take everywhere.


Saturday, October 22, 2016

Some more Olympus Trip 35 images

I am usually pretty good about finishing a roll of film in any particular camera.  However, sometimes one gets used and then gets out of my lineup for a while.  Maybe it's a sign that I have too many cameras? Nah!  Anyhow, I recently developed some accumulating rolls of b&w white, and this one roll of Kentmere 100 from my Olympus Trip 35 had July - September images all over it.  The first half of the roll was from the mid-July Ann Arbor Art Fair, then a few shots from our trip to the Upper Peninsula, and finished off with a few images from my visit to the FPP headquarters in New Jersey.  The Trip 35 is rarely my main camera, but when it is, I can easily run through a roll of film.  As a secondary camera, it really shines, and I rarely find a shot from it that doesn't come out as expected.  In those rare instances, it's probably because I have exceeded the capability of the camera.

Ann Arbor Art Fair.  If there is ever a time to use a camera like the Trip 35, that is it. We get about half a million people in the city over the course of 4 days, and you can't escape the Art Fair.  This year is the first time I have gone to work without seeing any of it, as my workplace is now 5 miles from campus.  So, I went on a Saturday morning hoping to shoot some really slow film (discussed here), but also brought the Trip 35 for street shooting.





Then in August, a few shots from the beach at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The storms a few days prior had sent waves far up on the beach, and the wave forms were still there in the sand, which I found to be really cool abstracts.



While the Trip 35 can't do everything, what it does do under good conditions really points out how good a little camera it is. No batteries. Just pop in a roll of film and you are good to go.  One last shot, of Mike Raso pondering his TLR at a Film Photography Project podcast taping session.  We have a good time doing these.  This was the first time I had used a flash with the Trip 35, and am pleased that it worked quite well.
As I went through these images, it is clear that the Trip 35 really lived up to its name -- it went on a lot of trips, with just one roll of film.  



Sunday, September 04, 2016

Walker Evans, Wright Morris and Lee Friedlander share a cabin

Well, not really.  However, while we were staying at the tiny cabin along the AuTrain River in late August, I spent about 40 minutes doing some shooting inside the cabin. It was morning, Adrienne was still asleep, and I was feeling a bit  creative.  I got out my Nikon F3HP with a 50mm lens, tripod,  and did some shots of the interior.  I finished scanning in the Kentmere 100 negatives, and as I edited them, it occurred to me that there were elements I had seen before, made by other, earlier photographers that for whatever motivations, did the same thing at some point.  So, here are some images that I made, and you can decide who would have shot what, had they been there.









Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Kentmere 100 Film..a bargain, and it's very good.

Over the years, I have shot just about every emulsion of B&W film that is available. Some become "go-to" favorites, and others get used sparingly for specific purposes. Sometimes I come across a cache of a long-discontinued film, such as Kodak Panatomic-X, and use it sparingly, not wanting to use it up right away.   It's downright annoying to really like a certain film and then have it unavailable.  One of my favorite medium-speed monochrome 35mm films is Kentmere 100.  It has fine grain, lies really flat in the scanner, and is readily available in bulk rolls.  Sold by Harman, it is made by Ilford, and is similar in performance to the Ilford FP-4 film.  My favorite developer with it is D76 1:1, but XTOL 1:1 gives a nice result as well.  I could write all sorts of things about the film, but it is probably just easier to show you some photographs:


old bus, Ann Arbor, MI

Robert Beech

Depot Street, Ypsilanti, MI

Hillsdale, MI

Ugly Mug, Ypsilanti, MI

Short's Brewery Window, Bellaire, MI

Birchwood Inn, Harbor Springs, MI

Hocking Hills, OH

I buy Kentmere 100 in bulk rolls, which saves me money.  A roll of 100 ft. is about $40, which prices it far below a lot of films.  The quality is excellent, and if you want to try a roll or two, of course, it is sold in 36 exp. rolls for about $3/roll online.  It is available from all of the typical places such as B&H, Adorama, and Freestyle.  I highly recommend Kentmere 100.