1. ISO 6 (not all cameras go this low, but my N8008 and F100 do. Otherwise, the typical lowest ISO is 12, so set your ISO at 12 and add 1 full stop of exposure compensation.)
2. With such a low ISO, you should use a tripod to eliminate shake.
3. This is a blue-sensitive film. Designed to produce b&w positives from b&w negatives, it will have full tonality. However, shooting a real scene will render reds much darker.
4. The spec sheet calls for D-96 developer, which is used in machine processing of movie film. I won't go into it's differences from Kodak D-76, but using D-76 will produce good results with this film.
5. Developing in D-76 - dilute 1:1, and develop for 8-1/2 minutes. A water stop bath will be fine. Fix in your typical fixer for 8 min. Wash how you would any b&w film.
I put a roll in my Nikon N8008s, and shot it on a sunny afternoon in downtown Ann Arbor. I shot hand-held, because I had left my tripod in the car. However, it freed me up to do some shots with it that I normally would not do. I developed as indicated above, and was rewarded with some interesting results:
Overall, the film yielded some pretty good and interesting results. While ISO 6 is recommended, I think it could have used a bit more exposure where there were dark reds (bricks). So maybe ISO 3 might be better. Using such a low ISO in the photo of the people on the scooters had me panning with the camera as they went past. Makes them look like they are going much faster! I have another roll to shoot and maybe I will do some bracketing at ISO 3 and 6 and see if there are any differences.