I was away for a week, which isn’t a particularly long time. But the this trip was long overdue, and the primary purpose was to attend the 50th reunion of the Parishville-Hopkinton (NY) class of 1975. You see, once I left home and went to college in Syracuse, I rarely went back except for a few occasions. Then, my wife and I moved to Ann Arbor, Michigan in 1981 to work for the University of Michigan – which I did until I retired in December, 2017. And between 1975 and now, I saw only my best friend from school a couple of times – 1978 when he was my best man at my wedding, and 1988, when I visited my grandfather in Parishville. Going to a high school reunion was just not going to happen – until this year. That’s where part of the title comes in – unpacking 50 years of memories, and I’ll get back to the reunion a bit later.
The second aspect of this trip was to take as many secondary roads as possible, and while not exactly a “Blue Highways” trip, I aimed to take photographs when I wanted, in as many places that I stopped in at my choosing. Now, it’s about 933 miles from my home in North Carolina to Parishville, NY, and my route was more or less direct until I got into New York State. I’ve always wanted to take US 11 was much as possible, and I used this trip to do so. But as a famous Apple Computer CEO once said, “the journey is the reward,” and that’s always been my mantra for a road trip. So, I planned my route over several days before I left, making sure that I wrote every day’s destination on a separate page in a loose-leaf notebook, with my routes and possible places of interest. It wasn’t exactly like the old days of the AAA Trip Tic maps, but my Garmin GPS did get used when I was on a route.
Choice of cameras
A car trip is a lot easier to pack for, since there’s less constraint on what I can bring vs. taking a plane. I chose reliable cameras that I have used for years, as a trip is not the place for a new camera. I want to be able to hop out of the car, framed my subject, and take the picture without fussing around. Second, I brought mostly film cameras, and only my iPhone and Panasonic Lumix GF-1 as the digicams. My main film cameras were my Nikon F3HP, Nikon FE, and Mamiya 645J. Secondary cameras were an Agfa Click, Adox Golf, and Horizon 202.
One thing anyone should do before taking their gear on a trip is to list what you are taking, along with serial numbers, just in case the worst happens. Then, photograph that list with your phone and you’ll have a record with you. It’s not like I was traveling to a dangerous area, but it makes sense to have that information with you.
Choice of film
I loaded the Nikon F3 with black and white film, and the FE was loaded with color C-41 film. Most of the b&w film was Ilford, but I also shot a roll of Wolfen UN54, Rollei 400s, and Eastman 5231. Color accounted for fewer rolls, but I shot Flic Film Elektra 100 (Kodak Aerocolor), Flic Film Aurora 800, Kodak Gold 200, and Fuji 200. In my Mamiya 645, I shot FPP Color 100 (Kodak Aerocolor), Fomapan 400, and Fuji Acros 100. The Horizon 202 was loaded with the perfect b&w film for panos, FPP Derevpan 100. The Agfa Click was loaded with FPP X-Ray film.
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| A looseleaf notebook was used for entries on the road and the Field Book is the notebook with all the edited information and thoughts during the trip |
Lenses
I finally tried using my 35mm PC Nikkor for some architectural shots, but for the most part, the F3 had a 50mm/2 Nikkor, and the FE had the 35mm/2 Nikkor. I used the 85/2 Nikkor quite a bit, and the 24/2.8 Nikkor a few times. I also used the 70-150 Tamron a few times. I packed the 300/4.5 Nikkor, but never used it. Most of the shots with the F3 also had a yellow filter. I packed extra lenses and accessories separately in a plastic tote. There’s no reason to carry around a lot of things that get used sparingly. That left me with my usual canvas messenger bag to add/remove lenses as needed. The small Lowepro backpack for the Mamiya 645 with the 80 and 45mm lenses and an extra film insert does not take up much space. My little Panasonic GF-1 has its own tiny bag with lenses and batteries.
The Trip
Day 1
I left on Wednesday Aug. 13, taking I-26 north (or I-26W as it is officially known, conjoined by US-23 and US-19) up through the NC/TN state line which would be the highest point on a major highway during the trip at 3370 ft. From there, I went past the area near Erwin, TN which had been destroyed by Helene almost a year ago. They are still rebuilding that stretch of highway. Eventually, I merged onto I-81 in TN, and entered VA near Bristol. It’s my opinion that the stretch of I-81 through Virginia and the Shenandoah Valley is the prettiest section of any interstate in the eastern US. I got off of I-81 near Buchanan, VA and stayed on US-11 until just before Winchester, VA.
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| North of Harrisonburg, VA along US-11 |
I love driving on US-11, as it runs roughly parallel to I-81, so if I want to get back in the fast lane, it’s pretty easy. However, one does not drive the US routes for speed. One drives them to actually see America. US-11 goes through many small towns, as well as larger cities, and it’s a great opportunity to be able to stop and photograph along the way. I hadn’t been through Buchanan before, so I was pleased to see a movie theater in the town, right on the Main Street. One of the things that you’ll notice in these US routes, is that homes often have their front porches ending at the sidewalk, or just a few feet from the road. Many have row houses, all lined up with identical architecture, front porches, columns, and in various states of repair. All too often, they could use a coat of paint. They are survivors, though, from the days of horse and carriages to today’s vehicles. I suspect that US-11 was once a wagon trail through these towns, which was widened to become a Macadam road and then to an asphalt highway big enough to allow truck traffic. Some towns may have a “business route” US-11 which means that they are close enough to US-11 to have traffic divert into town and then back onto the main highway, without a different route number.
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| New Market battlefield |
In Virginia, as well as Pennsylvania, you will see that US-11 goes past a lot of Civil War battlefields and notable historical sites, so if you are into that history, it’s a good route to explore. Obviously, I did not stop at every town to photograph, or I’d never make it to my destination in time. If you have no schedule and a camper, you could probably take all the time you want to do the route more thoroughly.
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| Outside the Travelodge in the morning. Giant waffles. |
I stayed the night in Winchester, VA at a Travelodge, which was the cheapest motel on my trip at $70/night. There’s a lot to see in the Winchester area if you have the time.
Day 2
My destination for Day 2 was Cortland, NY, where I would spend the night with my wife’s sister and her husband. From Winchester, I took I-81 N to just over the PA state line, and onto US-11. I made a few stops along the way, and got back onto I-81 around Shippensburg. I took US-15N before Harrisburg, which turned out to be a great drive. US-15 parallels the Susquehanna River, all the way to Williamsport, which is where the Little League World Series takes place, and it was taking place as I drove through the town.
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| Susquehanna River at McKees Half Falls Rest Area |
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| Williamsport Scenic Overlook |
US-15 ends at Lawrenceville, at the PA/NY border, and I-99 took me to Corning, NY. At Horseheads, I took route 13 all the way to Cortland, which is a beautiful town filled with Victorian-era homes. Like many small cities in the Southern Tier of NY, it was once a manufacturing hub. The stately homes attest to the wealth of the business owners. My stay with my in-laws was informative, and that evening I had a really tasty fried perch sandwich at a local restaurant. Certainly not something that I’d find in North Carolina.
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| The covered bridge in Newfield, NY - oldest covered bridge in NYS |
Day 3
I started off in I-81 in Cortland, and took it all the way to Watertown, which is where I was born. I passed through Syracuse on 481, which will replace the route that was I-81 that went right through the city. City planners decided that removing the interstate that divided old neighborhoods was long overdue, and I agree with that sentiment. However, until that's finished, it's slow going around the city.
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| slow going on 481/81 |
Before I got to Syracuse, I decided to take the exit to Jamesville which took me to Clark Reservation State Park. That park was a favorite place to visit when we lived in Syracuse. I was not disappointed - the trail along the limestone cliffs overlooking Glacial Lake were more rugged than I remembered. The lake was formed by a glacial waterfall, and it was the plunge pool that remains to this day. It was a pleasant diversion before I headed North.
State Route 3 took me to Cranberry Lake, a beautiful place that also is the location of the SUNY College of Environmental Science and Forestry’s Biological Station – alas, on the far side of the lake, accessible only by boat. I spent two summers there in 1977-78, first as a work-study student, then taking classes there and doing research on sand wasps. The research that I did on the wasp Alysson conicus, which preys on tiny leafhoppers is the only published research on that species. Cranberry Lake seemed a lot less lively than I remembered it.
At Sevey, I turned N on state route 56 towards Potsdam, my goal for the day, where I had a motel room reserved. Along this stretch of 56 I saw signs for Moose, and in many ways, the area reminded of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Lots of wetlands, spruce forest, and a pretty straight stretch of road. I stopped in the town of Colton, and took photographs of the buildings there. I was really struck by the beauty of the Zion Episcopal Church, built in 1883 of red Potsdam sandstone. The Raquette River flows through the town.
My final stop for the day was Potsdam, as the next day was going to be the big day in Parishville. I did a bit of walking in downtown Potsdam, and shot with the Aurora 800 film. The downtown has hardly changed in 50 years, but there are definitely more ethnic restaurants than there were when I visited in 2015. There are two colleges in town – Clarkson College and SUNY Potsdam, which is probably the reason that Potsdam still thrives.
Day 4
I had quite a bit of time to kill before the 1 pm meetup in Parishville, so I did some driving around, looking at spots that I remembered. My first stop was at the Parishville Town Park, where I had my first real summer job in 1972. I picked up trash, raked the sand on the beach, and probably did some other maintenance. I was paid $1.65/hour, and I am pretty certain that I spent almost all of the money that I earned on model rockets. Thanks, Estes! There is now a covered ice rink (only used in the winter) and some other amenities that didn’t exist 50 years ago.
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| W. branch of the St. Regis River at Jones bridge. |
I continued on the back roads, hoping to see Sylvan Falls that I had scouted out on Google Earth. That’s on the West Branch of the St. Regis river, a mile or so upstream from where I used to fish when I was a teenager. I found that all that property is owned by the Sylvan Falls Hunting and Fishing Club, so it was off-limits. However, I did photograph the Jones Road bridge that crosses the river, and it was a beautiful spot that I’d never visited when I lived so close nearby!
I then continued on Jones Road to White’s Hill Road and drove as far as Joe Indian Pond. These are places that I knew from my youth, and on the drive back to Parishville, I went past the house where I lived with my grandparents. I could barely see it from the road, as all of the trees that I helped my grandfather plant in the early 70s are now so big they obscure the house. After my grandfather died in 1998, my aunt sold the property.
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| Some of the people that I graduated with 50 years ago. |
I arrived at the PHCS class of 1975 - 50th reunion, and knowing that our graduating class was about 45 students, I did not have high expectations. However, at least 18 of us showed up, some with spouses. I had traveled the farthest of anyone, with the next farthest person driving from Pittsburgh. I immediately recognized some of my former classmates, and it’s amazing how some people can look almost the same as they did 50 years ago. The rest of us have changed appreciably, and the hardest part for me was remembering the names of everyone. I was truly amazed that anyone recognized me, and many had wondered what had happened to me over the years. Some people still lived in the area – some always had, and others had returned after retirement. It was a bit of a surreal experience, and I was so caught up in the moment that I never took a photo of anyone! I appreciated the genuine feelings that people had on seeing me again. 1975 was half a century ago, and I think we all shared the belief that our teachers and the school were very good. I do think that we all became good people, and it showed in how many of them were active in volunteering, serving on town councils, town government, and there was no pretentiousness.
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| August 17, 1975. Exa 1a, Plus-X Pan. The accident. |
My buddy Bill LaRue, who keeps in touch via email – and who alerted me to this gathering, had last seen me in 1975 – August 17, in fact. Almost 50 years to the day. He and I were passengers in a car driven by another classmate, Ward Remington. Ward had reached down to pick up an 8-track cassette that had fallen to the floor of his Dodge Dart when he veered into the left lane, less than a mile from his house. I was in the back seat, and watched as an oncoming car collided with us, sending my camera flying off my neck – into the front of Ward’s car. My glasses had also gone flying, as did Bill’s. Bill’s forehead put a big divot into the windshield. I had forgotten, and Bill recently told me that when he put his glasses on he thought something was wrong with his eyes, and I told him that he was wearing MY glasses! Ultimately, he and Ward went to the hospital for some minor injuries. I escaped without a scratch, but my camera was missing a strap lug that got pulled out by the sudden deceleration. Luckily, we were going less than 20 mph. By the way, I did take photos of the aftermath.
It was a great afternoon of stories from everyone, and I had a sense of peace and satisfaction after all was over. It was nice to know that despite all these years, we had all become adults with meaningful lives.
That evening, I had time to go over to Canton, and took some photos of the Grasse River on a hot afternoon. The weather for most of the trip up to that point had been mostly cloudless and hot – around 90 for most of the days. I was hoping for some cloudy skies and cooler temperatures, and I would soon have my way.
Day 5
I left the motel in Potsdam and drove on Route 11B towards Hopkinton. One big difference from 50 years ago is that there are a lot of Amish farms in the area. Most of the farming there when I was a kid was devoted to dairy farms, Since then, most of the small farms folded, and the big dairy farms got bigger. I’m sure the lure of cheap land and old farms are what attracted the Amish to the area, as well as roads with wide paved shoulders, so they can drive their horses and buggies along the routes.
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| The dam at St. Regis Falls |
My goal for the day was to take state route 458 to state route 30 towards Tupper Lake, and then 28N to 28 to Inlet, NY for the night. The route is a great drive through some small hamlets, starting with St. Regis Falls. Continuing on from there, I saw another series of signs alerting me to watch for moose. I suppose they are like the watch for Elk signs in northern Michigan – low probability. However I did photograph one that had been altered.
Joining up with State Route 30, I turned South towards Tupper Lake. One of the things that others might not realize is that the Adirondack “Park” is really a land-use designation, and there are state-owned areas mixed in among private holdings. Growing up within the boundaries, I knew that. But in driving around, I noted that the signs for many of the state lands are relatively small and hard to read at 50 mph. So, it’s easy to miss a spot that could be worthwhile to explore. The other thing is peculiar to NY, not just the Adirondacks. There are many “rest stops” but none of them have toilet facilities or even garbage bins. In contrast, Michigan has many rural rest stops with at least pit toilets, picnic tables, and bear-proof garbage bins. I think those definitely are helpful for travelers, and NY State could do better in that area.
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| NYS and their tiny signs, no pit toilets, either. |
As I approached Tupper Lake, I encountered a huge campus with lots of white buildings, and some looked rather decrepit. I decided to check it out, and found that it used to be the Sunmount Development Center, which the Veterans Administration opened in 1924 to treat WWI veterans for tuberculosis. The facility closed in 1965 due to antibiotic treatments for TB replacing the fresh-air treatment that made the Saranac Lake area so famous. There is still a core area that is currently being used to care for people with developmental disabilities, and it retains the Sunmount name. I photographed some of the old buildings, and there are a lot of them in actually rather good condition.
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| A bit of Tupper Lake itself |
At Long Lake, I stopped for a really good scoop of ice cream at Custard’s Last Stand. There was a place like that with the same name in Potsdam that I visited when I was a kid. Then, I turned east on route 28N by mistake. After going on for about 10 miles, I realized my mistake, but I knew that 28N eventually just makes a loop around and joins back with 28, so I stayed on the route, and I’m glad that I did. I encountered the SUNY ESF Interpretive Center before Newcomb, and I was able to walk the trails there and enjoy the northwoods. It was on that walk that I used the Panasonic GF-1 the most, since I didn’t want to be burdened with heavier cameras. It was a good choice.
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| Rich Lake |
The next aspect was encountering the Hudson River, which I crossed over twice, and then the highway followed it for a bit. At that point, the Hudson River is a whitewater experience, and no more than 100 feet wide. I did get a few photos with the Nikon F3, but it was quite overcast and I’ll know how I did after I develop the film.
I made it to Inlet (which is an odd name for a town), and checked into the Deer Meadows Motel a little after 6 pm. It was my final night in the Adirondacks, I was not disappointed. The air had cooled down quite a bit, and when I went into the town for dinner, I wished that I had put on jacket. The business district of Inlet was quite busy with tourists, and after dinner, I walked about and took some photos. On my way back to motel, I saw 4 deer right behind the Deer Meadows Motel sign, and of course, they did not stay long enough for a photo. It was a cool night, and it felt good getting under the covers for a change.
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| It was cool, but not too cool for ice cream, Inlet, NY |
Day 6
I was up at 6:30, and the outdoor temperature was 47° F – the coolest that I’ve been since April. A sunny day, and I was back on the road at 8:30. My first stop was in the tourist town of Old Forge, and I filled up the gas tank there.
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| Moose River |
Driving on route 28, I saw a sign for a road at the Moose River and took it. Moose River did not offer any views of a moose, but I did find a spot to photograph the river. South of Boonville, route 28 joins route 12, which I took all the way to I-81 at Binghamton. The Southern Tier of NY is filled with gently rolling hills, picturesque valleys, a lot of farms and small towns of varying economic status. Chenango County is especially notable in that regard. The county seat of Norwich is graced by the beautiful white Greek-Revival style County Courthouse with 4 massive Corinthian columns across the front. Built in 1827, it is one of the oldest courthouses in NY. Farther down the road, I was amazed to find not one, but two round barns right on the side of route 12. They are not very common, so I had to stop and photograph them.
Once I was on I-81, I drove all the way to Winchester, Virginia.
Day 7
This was my last day of driving, and I decided that I wanted to take at least part of Skyline Drive, which starts in Front Royal, about 15 miles from Winchester. However, on the way there, I had to stop and take a few photos of Dinosaur Land, a place that just says “photograph me.” It was too early to actually enter, but the dinosaurs outside the fence and the toothy entrance were just a lot of fun.
At this point, there was a fine mist falling, and after I filled up the gas tank, I went to Skyline Drive, which is also the entrance to Shenandoah National Park. Luckily, I’m considered a senior citizen, so I got the National Parks annual pass for $20. Even though it was probably going to be cloudy, and perhaps even foggy at the elevations of the drive, I decided it was worth the time to give it a try. Skyline Drive eventually connects to the beginning of the Blue Ridge Parkway, 100 miles farther on.
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| The only view I had before I was enveloped in clouds |
Due to the fog and rain, I had enough of it after a little over half-way through, and I took US-33 to Harrisonburg, and then onto I-81 S and I-26 to home, arriving after 7 pm. Seeing those mountains greet me on I-26 is a beautiful moment.
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| almost home! |
Overall, I drove 2,213 miles, and averaged 30.6 mpg in my 2011 Ford Escape. All my expenses for the trip were just under $1,000. I finished 13 rolls of film, with partial rolls left in all of the cameras. Most of the film shot was b&w. I have yet to develop the film – will be doing so shortly, and I’m looking forward to sharing those on Flickr.
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| Fifty years ago on the W. branch of the St, Regis river, March, 1975 Exa 1a, Tri-X Pan |
Trips like this are what I really enjoy. Other than the prearranged lodging, I had an open schedule, and stopped whenever I wanted. Many of the secondary roads that I took were novel to me, and it was a delight seeing so many places. I didn’t photograph everything. Sometimes just seeing the countryside and what different places look like is just part of the entertainment.
Many times I see people talk about going to photograph the mid-west, the far-west, etc. as if those are the only places worthy of photography. Perhaps the eastern US is a bit more sublime, but if you have a photographic eye, there’s a lot to take in while driving secondary roads and state routes in the eastern US. If you are looking to tell stories with your photographs, pick any sub-genre of what’s out there, and you will be rewarded with plenty of photo opportunities.
