1. ISO 6 (not all cameras go this low, but my N8008 and F100 do. Otherwise, the typical lowest ISO is 12, so set your ISO at 12 and add 1 full stop of exposure compensation.)
2. With such a low ISO, you should use a tripod to eliminate shake.
3. This is a blue-sensitive film. Designed to produce b&w positives from b&w negatives, it will have full tonality. However, shooting a real scene will render reds much darker.
4. The spec sheet calls for D-96 developer, which is used in machine processing of movie film. I won't go into it's differences from Kodak D-76, but using D-76 will produce good results with this film.
5. Developing in D-76 - dilute 1:1, and develop for 8-1/2 minutes. A water stop bath will be fine. Fix in your typical fixer for 8 min. Wash how you would any b&w film.
I put a roll in my Nikon N8008s, and shot it on a sunny afternoon in downtown Ann Arbor. I shot hand-held, because I had left my tripod in the car. However, it freed me up to do some shots with it that I normally would not do. I developed as indicated above, and was rewarded with some interesting results:
Overall, the film yielded some pretty good and interesting results. While ISO 6 is recommended, I think it could have used a bit more exposure where there were dark reds (bricks). So maybe ISO 3 might be better. Using such a low ISO in the photo of the people on the scooters had me panning with the camera as they went past. Makes them look like they are going much faster! I have another roll to shoot and maybe I will do some bracketing at ISO 3 and 6 and see if there are any differences.
I love these low ISO blue sensitive films from FPP! One thing to look out for is that since they are blue sensitive, they don't work well in incandescent light. At least I haven't had luck shooting them indoors :)
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